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New Website!
Sep 2021
Aug 2021
Jul 2021
Mar 2021
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Dec 2020
Nov 2020
Oct 2020
Sep 2020
Aug 2020
Jul 2020
Jun 2020
May 2020
Apr 2020
Jan 2020
2019
New Website!
This website hasn’t been updated in a while – and it shows. But fear not! It hasn’t been forgotten about. As a matter of fact it is being rebuilt in it’s entirety. When it is ready and live it will simply replace this one.
In the mean time it is still being worked on and needs some tweaking. If you want to have a look and see if you can find errors, or have feedback (maybe some new climbs that are not in the database), have a look and get in touch. Best way to do that would be to either comment here or check the “todo” section on the new website.
The current holding page for the work in progress website is: https://the-rak.bearblog.dev/
Sep 2021
After on-and-off again trying Agent Orange (V11) for a while, Lans Hansen showed us what his lock down training was all about. He sent pretty quickly after we were allowed out again and agrees with the suggest upgrade (John Palmer – sandbagger extraordinaire); and Lans would know, he went down south and ticked a whole bunch of tens and elevens that same week. [video]
New beta videos added: Brassneck (V8), Zac’s Warm Up (V2)
Aug 2021
Just before lockdown hit and put an end to any further sendage Rob Gajland managed to link the Allison Wonderland start into Speed Addict: Overdose. He’s proposing V12 for the climb.
Jul 2021
July had another big first ascent: This time it was George Sanders sending his long term project of linking Allison Wonderland (V11) into Musashi (V10). He is proposing V13 for Sasaki. [video]
That side of the cave seems to be getting more attention these days: Anthony Chui managed to snag a repeat of Shogun (V11). [video]
New beta videos added: Baguette (V9), Addicted (V10)
Mar 2021
March was a big month for the RAK. The longest standing project out there was taken down. First tried in 2006, it received plenty of attention over the years from all the strong kids passing through. Considering it’s just a one move problem it must be a pretty nails move. Well having worked on it for months, both in person, and at home on his replica on the woody Oskar Wolff managed to get the much coveted first ascent of the Chuck Yeager project: Chuck Yeager – suggesting V13. [video]
Coming up through the ranks is Mac Duggan, he sent his first proper V7 (everyone knows Waitomo is soft) in only his second session on it: Raw Toast (V7). Keep your eyes peeled.
Jan 2021
Nick Seabright managed to maintain his crushing form from December by sending Shogun (V11). [video]
Dec 2020
Another first things first: the Topo page is now live. However bear in mind that some of the topos are a bit out of date. If there is any confusion, or grade discrepancies the Index page is kept up-to-date.
After putting some serious effort in Nick Seabright managed to send Allison Wonderland (V11). [video] That fateful day must have been a low gravity day as Nick then went on to send Musashi (V10) within just a handful of goes. [video]
One early Saturday morning Ivan Luketina managed to link the moves and send Mr Olympia (V10). [video]
In a strange coincidence Rob Gajland sent Raw Ruthenium (V10) that same day. But Rob only turned up at the crag after Ivan had already left. [video]
Nov 2020
First things first: the Index page went live in November. It has information on every climb in the Bronx sector – if there are any missing, or mistakes, get in touch.
On a particularly windy day in November Ivan Lukatina sent Boilerplate sit (V9). He used some much nicer beta than the first ascentionist, Josiah, did. He also reckons it’s pretty nails for the grade and could easily be a V10.
George Sanders sent Tyrant (V9) – which people either tend to get on with or find nails. George felt it was easier than Musashi (V10) so reckons V9 is fair. Climbers and their grade debates…
Talking about Musashi (V10), which is getting a lot more attention lately (are the locals getting stronger or is it nicer to work without that boulder underneath it) had another repeat: Anthony Chui. [video]
Oskar Wolf went to the Rak to work a project he’s even built a replica of. Wrecked himself on that, but no send yet, then finished off the session with a quick repeat of Allison Wonderland (V11)?! On that note how has he done all the harder stuff first? We will never know. [video]
Agent Orange (V11) was first put up in 2011. Chronically undergraded it took nine years to get repeated. Rob Gajland, who completely changed the beta (must be a short man thing), got there after a fair amount of work. He reckons it’s a hard V11 at least. Let’s see what others say. [video]
Oct 2020
Anthony Chui sent Raw Ruthenium (V9) and reckons it’s pretty nails. He also repeated The Code of the Samurai (V11).
Ivan Lukatina repeated Tyrant (V9), and reckons it’s on the stiff side.
Andoni Arbulu managed a repeated of Shogun (V11), and found yet new beta.
Rob Gajland added even more ridiculous linkups. Basically starting on the Musashi rail climbing down to the glued flake and then all the usual exits from there. Topos coming before the end of the month will have all these covered in them.
Sep 2020
Rob Gajland has added yet another eliminate to the front of the Bronx cave: Speed Addict – suggesting V9. He also added an extension to it: Addicted – suggesting V10.
Ivan Luketina managed to repeat Musashi (V10) as well as the relatively new on piste (V10) second go no less, although he reckons the latter is only V9.
Anthony Chui managed a repeat of Mr Olympia (V10).
Oskar Wolff also managed to repeat Musashi (V10).
Aug 2020
George Sanders sent Musahi (V10), repeated Shogun (V11) agreeing with the grade and added a further little extension to Shogun (V11): Ronin – suggesting V12.
Rob Gajland also repeated Shogun (V11) agreeing with the grade and added his own low start to Mushai (V10): Doraku – suggesting V11. He also managed a few link ups over the month; Freak Out (V6) into Control Freak (V8): Out of Control – suggesting V9, Freak Out (low start) (V8) into Control Freak (V8): Control Freak Out – suggesting V10 and The Code of the Samurai (V11) into Control Freak (V8): Code Control – suggesting V12 for the 23 move pump-fest.
Oskar Wolff managed to repeat full piste (V12) agreeing with the grade, but reckons it’s on the soft side.
Andoni Arbulu also managed a repeat of Musahi (V10).
Frank Foster managed a repeat of on piste (V10) agreeing with the suggested grade.
Jul 2020
Lans Hansen added a little extension to Musashi: Shogun – suggesting V11.
Rob Gajland managed to link Fatal Discharge (V12) into Control Freak (V8): The Abortionist – tentatively suggesting V13. He also managed to repeat Musashi (V10).
George Sanders managed to repeat the relatively new on piste (V10) and full piste (V12), agreeing with the suggested grades. The latter he got on his first attempt!
Andoni Arbulu got a repeat of Mr Olympia (V10), he reckons it’s a tad soft for the grade but a bit morpho and being a bit taller helps.
Anthony Chui managed a repeat of Through the Looking Glass (V11).
Jun 2020
Rob Gajland added a further extension to his off piste eliminate: full piste – suggesting V12.
George Sanders managed to repeat the well established Allison Wonderland (V11).
Anthony Chui managed a repeat of Allison Wonderland (V11) as well as the relatively new on piste (V10), agreeing with the suggested grade.
May 2020
Rob Gajland added an extension to his off piste eliminate: on piste – suggesting V10.
Lans Hansen added a sweet little line to the right of Jesus SS: Bonsai – suggesting V5. After some repeats it’s been upgraded to V6.
George Sanders managed a repeat of Through the Looking-Glass (V11).
Oskar Wolff repeated Tyrant (V9), but reckons it’s more along the lines of a V10.
Apr 2020
Lockdown..
Jan 2020
Rob Gajland added a new eliminate to the front of the Bronx cave: off piste – suggesting V9
2019
There is a good chance that some sends have been left out. If you know of any please get in touch.
Oskar Wolff managed an impressive one session repeat of Fatal Discharge (V12) – word on the street has it in only 7 goes; as well as Through the Looking-Glass (V11).
Rob Gajland also managed to repeat Fatal Discharge (V12), although it took him more like 7 sessions.